Tsavo West Destination Guide

Tsavo West is the more dramatic half of Tsavo. While Tsavo East is flat and open, Tsavo West is volcanic country, with black lava flows, extinct cones, rocky hills and crystal-clear springs where you can watch hippos from an underwater hide. It covers approximately 9,065 square kilometres and is home to the Big Five, including black rhino, which are protected in a sanctuary.

The park lies in south-eastern Kenya on either side of the Nairobi to Mombasa road, which separates Tsavo West from Tsavo East. It is about halfway between Nairobi and the coast, and it pairs naturally with Amboseli to the west and Tsavo East to the east.

Why visit Tsavo West?

• Some of the most varied scenery of any park in Kenya.
• Mzima Springs, one of the best-known wildlife spots in East Africa.
• A dedicated rhino sanctuary where black rhino are seen regularly.
• Very few vehicles, even in peak season.
• Excellent to combine with Amboseli, Tsavo East and a beach break.

Wildlife highlights

• Black rhino: protected in the Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary, a fenced area at the foot of the Ngulia Hills. The population has grown steadily since the sanctuary opened in 1986.
• Elephants: part of Tsavo’s large elephant population, often dusted red like their neighbours in Tsavo East. The Tsavo Trust monitors the area’s remaining big tuskers.
• Lions: including the maneless males typical of Tsavo.
• Leopards: the rocky hills and thick bush make this good leopard habitat.
• Buffalo: common near water and in the grasslands.
• Hippos and crocodiles: at Mzima Springs, the Tsavo River and Lake Jipe.
• Dry-country antelopes: lesser kudu, gerenuk, fringe-eared oryx, klipspringer on the rocky outcrops and Kirk’s dik-dik.
• Other mammals: Masai giraffe, zebra, eland, hartebeest, bat-eared fox, caracal and, on rare occasions, wild dog.
• Birds: more than 600 species have been recorded, including many birds of prey, golden pipits, hornbills and the vulturine guineafowl.

Top attractions

Mzima Springs

Mzima Springs is the park’s best-known sight. Water from the Chyulu Hills filters for years through volcanic rock and emerges here as clear pools surrounded by palms and fig trees. The springs supply a significant share of Mombasa’s drinking water.

A walking path leads around the pools, and an underwater glass viewing chamber lets you watch hippos, crocodiles and shoals of fish. Early morning is the best time, when the hippos are most active and the water is still. The springs are the subject of the classic 1960s documentary Mzima: Portrait of a Spring.

Shetani Lava Flow

A broad expanse of black, jagged lava left by an eruption about 200 years ago. Local Kamba legend says the devil (shetani in Swahili) came out of the ground. You can walk along the edges of the flow with your guide.

Chaimu Crater

A young volcanic cone close to Kilaguni. A short, steep walk to the rim gives you views over the lava fields and the Chyulu Hills.

Ngulia Hills and Rhino Sanctuary

The Ngulia Hills rise to more than 1,800 metres. At their base, the rhino sanctuary is patrolled day and night, and game drives through it offer the best chance of seeing black rhino in the park.

Ngulia also has a strong British connection. Every year from October to December, on misty nights, huge numbers of migrating European birds are drawn to the lights of Ngulia Safari Lodge. A long-running bird ringing project has ringed birds here that were later recovered in the UK and across Europe.

Lake Jipe and Lake Chala

• Lake Jipe: a shallow lake on the Tanzanian border, with hippos, crocodiles and great birding against the backdrop of the North Pare Mountains and Kilimanjaro.
• Lake Chala: a deep blue crater lake straddling the border near Taveta, with steep forested sides.

Roaring Rocks and Poacher’s Lookout

Two viewpoints with broad views over the park. Roaring Rocks takes its name from the sound of the wind rushing over the cliffs.

Other activities

• Game drives: morning, afternoon and full-day drives with packed lunches.
• Guided walks: available at some lodges and around Mzima Springs.
• Sundowners: most camps set up drinks at a viewpoint at the end of the day.
• Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary: a private sanctuary on the south-eastern edge of Tsavo West, offering night game drives, with lodges built on stilts over waterholes.

Where to stay in Tsavo West

Luxury

• Finch Hattons: a luxury tented camp beside hippo pools and natural springs, named after Denys Finch Hatton, the British aviator and hunter from Out of Africa.
• Umani Springs: a private house near the Kibwezi Forest, just north of the park, run for exclusive use.

Mid-range

• Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge: the first lodge built in a Kenyan national park, opened in 1962. It overlooks a busy waterhole, with views of Kilimanjaro and the Chyulu Hills.
• Severin Safari Camp: a family-owned tented camp close to Kilaguni, with a spa, a pool and friendly service.
• Ngulia Safari Lodge: on the edge of the Ngulia escarpment, with wide views and a floodlit waterhole.
• Rhino Valley Lodge: simple cottages overlooking the Mukui River valley.
• Sarova Salt Lick Game Lodge and Sarova Taita Hills Game Lodge: in the Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary, popular with families.

Value

• Kitani Bandas: self-catering cottages run by Severin, ideal for budget-conscious travellers.
• Lake Jipe Bandas: basic KWS bandas on the shores of Lake Jipe.

When to go

• June to October: the dry season and the best time for game viewing.
• January to February: dry and hot, with good visibility.
• March to May and November: the rains. Lush scenery, fewer visitors and lower rates.
• October to December: bird ringing season at Ngulia, and a great time for birders.

Daytime temperatures are typically 25 to 32°C, slightly cooler in the hills.

Getting there

• By road from Nairobi: approximately 4 to 5 hours to Mtito Andei Gate.
• By train: the Madaraka Express (SGR) stops at Mtito Andei, a short drive from the park.
• From Amboseli: about 3 to 4 hours via Chyulu Gate.
• From Mombasa or Diani: approximately 4 to 5 hours.
• By air: charter flights land at Kilaguni and Finch Hattons airstrips.

Park fees

Tsavo West is managed by Kenya Wildlife Service. At the time of writing, non-resident adults pay US$80 (about £60) per day, and children pay less. Payment is cashless. Our Tsavo West packages include all park fees. Sterling figures are indicative and subject to exchange rate fluctuations.

Practical tips

• Visit Mzima Springs early for active hippos and the best light.
• Wear sturdy shoes for Shetani and Chaimu, as the lava rock is sharp.
• Combine Tsavo West with Amboseli for Kilimanjaro and elephants, then continue to the coast.
• Consult your GP about malaria protection before you travel.

How long to stay

Two nights let you see Mzima Springs, the lava flows and the rhino sanctuary. Add a third if you want to visit Lake Jipe or Lake Chala.