Lake Naivasha Guide: Boat Rides, Hell’s Gate & Lodges

Lake Naivasha is where you get out of the safari vehicle. Located in the Great Rift Valley, approximately 90km north-west of Nairobi, it is a freshwater lake where you can walk among giraffe and zebra, cycle past buffalo and take a boat to within metres of hippos, something most Kenyan parks can’t offer. For UK travellers, it is also the natural overnight stop between Nairobi and the Masai Mara, turning a long drive into two easy halves.

The lake sits at approximately 1,890 metres above sea level, surrounded by yellow fever trees, papyrus and the extinct volcanoes of Mount Longonot and the Eburru hills. It is not a national park itself, so the pace is slower than a typical safari stop and the activities are more varied.

Why go to Lake Naivasha

• It combines well with the Masai Mara, Lake Nakuru and Hell’s Gate National Park.
• Walking and cycling safaris are on offer, a welcome change after long days in a vehicle.
• It is perfect for families, active travellers and anyone who would like a day or two of relaxation in the middle of a busy trip.
• Lodges offer good value compared with the main safari parks.

Wildlife on and around the lake

• Hippos: Lake Naivasha has a large hippo population. You can spot pods from the boat, and many lodges have hippos grazing on their lawns at night.
• African fish eagles: the lake is one of the best places in Kenya to watch them swoop for fish, and boat guides will often throw a fish to bring them in close.
• Giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, waterbuck and eland: common on Crescent Island and the private sanctuaries along the shore.
• Buffalo: found in Hell’s Gate and near the lake shore. Your guide will advise you on safe distances.
• Black-and-white colobus monkeys: in the fever tree woodland, particularly around Elsamere and the Crater Lake area.
• Birds: over 400 species have been recorded, including pelicans, cormorants, kingfishers, herons, jacanas and African spoonbills.

Crescent Island has no large predators, which is what makes the walking safari possible.

Things to do

Boat ride on Lake Naivasha

The classic Naivasha activity is a one-hour boat trip. You pass hippo pods, see fish eagles and pelicans and usually land on Crescent Island for a walk. Early morning and late afternoon bring the best light and the calmest water.

Walking safari on Crescent Island

Crescent Island is a private sanctuary on a peninsula in the lake. You walk with a guide among giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, waterbuck and gazelle, often within a few metres. Scenes from Out of Africa were filmed nearby. A separate entry fee is paid on the island.

Hell’s Gate National Park

A short drive south of the lake, Hell’s Gate is one of the few parks in Kenya where you can cycle or walk freely. Highlights include:

• Cycling safari: pedal past zebra, giraffe, buffalo, warthog and Thomson’s gazelle on flat dirt roads. Bikes can be hired at Elsa Gate.
• Fischer’s Tower and Central Tower: columns of volcanic rock popular with rock climbers.
• Ol Njorowa Gorge: a narrow red-rock gorge you explore on foot with a local guide. Parts of it are said to have inspired scenes in Disney’s The Lion King.
• Olkaria Geothermal Spa: a natural hot pool heated by the nearby geothermal plant.
• Raptors: Verreaux’s eagles, Egyptian vultures and lammergeiers have all been recorded on the cliffs.

Please be aware that the gorge can flood after heavy rain, so guides check conditions on the day.

Mount Longonot hike

Mount Longonot is a dormant volcano rising to 2,776 metres. The trail leads up to the crater rim, where you can hike all the way around the caldera. Plan for a 4 to 6-hour round trip. It is a steep but non-technical walk with excellent views of the Rift Valley and the lake.

Other activities

• Elsamere: the former home of Joy Adamson, author of Born Free, whose work led to the founding of the Born Free Foundation. It is now a conservation centre and museum, famous for afternoon tea on the lawn with colobus monkeys in the trees.
• Crater Lake Game Sanctuary: a small emerald-green volcanic lake with walking trails and a lodge.
• Horse riding: through private wildlife sanctuaries such as Sanctuary Farm, among giraffe and zebra.
• Lake Oloiden: a smaller alkaline lake next to Naivasha, sometimes with flamingos.
• Hot air ballooning and helicopter flights: occasionally available from lodges around the lake.

Where to stay at Lake Naivasha

Upper range

• Loldia House: a 1920s farmhouse on the western shore run by Governors’ Camp, with cottages, horse riding and boat trips.
• Chui Lodge: a luxury lodge within the Oserian Wildlife Sanctuary, offering game drives, night drives and walks on a private conservancy.
• Kiangazi House: a colonial-style house on the Oserian sanctuary with a small number of rooms.
• Olerai House: a family-owned house with beautiful gardens on the lake shore.

Mid-range

• Lake Naivasha Sopa Resort: large cottages surrounded by lawns where hippos graze at night. A good option for families.
• Enashipai Resort and Spa: a modern resort with a highly regarded spa, ideal for relaxing between safari stops.
• Lake Naivasha Country Club: a historic property on the eastern shore, once a stop for flying boats between Southampton and South Africa.
• Great Rift Valley Lodge and Golf Resort: on the Eburru hills, with an 18-hole golf course and views over the valley.
• Lake Naivasha Crescent Camp: a tented camp on the shore, near Crescent Island.

Budget

• Camp Carnelley’s and Fisherman’s Camp: favoured by backpackers and overland groups, with bandas and campsites on the lake shore.

When to go

Lake Naivasha is good all year round.

• June to October and December to March: the drier months, perfect for cycling in Hell’s Gate and the Longonot hike.
• April to May and November: the rainy seasons. Everything is green, but the gorge in Hell’s Gate may close after heavy rain.

Daytime temperatures are usually between 20 and 27°C, with cool nights.

Getting there

• From Nairobi: approximately 2 to 2.5 hours by road, including a stop at the Rift Valley viewpoint on the escarpment.
• To the Masai Mara: approximately 4 to 5 hours by road, making Naivasha a great stopover.
• To Lake Nakuru: about 1.5 hours, which makes it easy to pair with Lake Nakuru National Park.
• By air: there are small airstrips around the lake, and charter flights are available.

Fees

There is no park fee for the lake itself, but individual activities carry their own fees. Hell’s Gate National Park is managed by Kenya Wildlife Service, and at the time of writing, non-resident adults pay US$50 (about £38) per day. Crescent Island, Crater Lake and Elsamere all charge their own entry fees. Boat rides are charged per boat. If these activities are part of your itinerary, their fees are included in your package. Sterling figures are indicative and subject to exchange rate fluctuations.

Practical tips

• Never walk towards hippos, even on lodge grounds. They are one of Africa’s most dangerous animals.
• Bring sunscreen and a hat for Hell’s Gate. There is little shade on the cycling route.
• Wear good walking shoes for the gorge and Longonot.
• Stay at least one night. It makes the Nairobi to Mara drive far more enjoyable.

How long to stay

One night covers a boat ride and Crescent Island. Two nights let you enjoy Hell’s Gate, Elsamere or the Longonot hike at a leisurely pace.