Samburu National Reserve Guide: The Special Five

Samburu National Reserve is where you see the animals you won’t find in southern Kenya. This hot, dry reserve in the north is home to the “Samburu Special Five”, a group of species well adapted to semi-desert life, as well as large numbers of elephant, lions, leopards and cheetahs. It is wilder and less crowded than the Masai Mara, and one of our favourite recommendations for UK travellers on their second Kenya safari or first-timers looking for something different.

The reserve covers 165 square kilometres on the northern bank of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, about 350km north of Nairobi. Buffalo Springs National Reserve lies across the river to the south and Shaba National Reserve to the east. Together they form one continuous wildlife area, and most game drives cross between them.

Why go to Samburu

• You can see species that are not found on a standard Kenyan safari circuit.
• Vehicle numbers are low, so sightings feel private.
• In the dry season, the Ewaso Ng’iro River attracts huge numbers of animals.
• The Samburu people, close cousins of the Maasai, add a strong cultural side to your trip.
• It pairs naturally with Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Lewa and Laikipia on a northern Kenya itinerary.

The Samburu Special Five

Many wildlife enthusiasts visit Samburu for these five species:

1. Grevy’s zebra: the largest and most endangered zebra species, with thin, tightly packed stripes, a white belly and large rounded ears. Fewer than 3,000 remain in the wild, nearly all in northern Kenya. The Grevy’s Zebra Trust works with local communities to protect them.
2. Reticulated giraffe: covered in a neat net of large brown patches separated by bright white lines. Many consider it the most beautiful of all the giraffes.
3. Beisa oryx: a large antelope with long straight horns and bold black-and-white face markings, well adapted to dry country.
4. Somali ostrich: the males have blue-grey necks and legs rather than the pink of the common ostrich.
5. Gerenuk: a long-necked antelope that stands on its hind legs to browse leaves from high branches. Its name means “giraffe-necked” in Somali.

With two or three days of game drives, you have a good chance of seeing all five.

Other wildlife

• Elephants: around 900 elephants roam the wider Samburu ecosystem. The research charity Save the Elephants has studied them here since the 1990s, and guides often know individual families by name.
• Lions: several prides live along the river. Samburu is also known for Kamunyak, a lioness that adopted a series of oryx calves in the early 2000s.
• Leopards: Samburu is one of the best areas in Kenya for leopard sightings, particularly among the doum palms and rocky outcrops.
• Cheetahs: often seen on the open plains of Buffalo Springs and Shaba.
• Wild dogs: uncommon, but occasionally recorded in the surrounding area.
• Other species: Kirk’s dik-dik, Grant’s gazelle, impala, waterbuck, buffalo, striped hyena and large Nile crocodiles in the river.
• Birds: over 450 species have been recorded, including vulturine guineafowl, the Somali bee-eater, golden-breasted starlings and several hornbills.

Samburu activities

• Game drives: early morning and late afternoon, with a break during the hottest part of the day. The riverbanks are the best area in the dry season.
• Samburu village visit: meet a Samburu family, see how their homes are built and learn about their beadwork and cattle culture. The Samburu are known for their bright red cloth and layers of beaded necklaces.
• Guided walks: offered in the community conservancies around the reserve, such as Kalama and Westgate, with Samburu guides and a ranger.
• Camel treks: some camps offer short camel rides or multi-day camel safaris in the surrounding conservancies.
• Reteti Elephant Sanctuary: a few hours to the north in the Namunyak Conservancy. Reteti is Africa’s first community-owned elephant sanctuary, run by Samburu keepers. It makes a good half-day or full-day excursion, usually by light aircraft or helicopter.
• Bush meals and sundowners: often set up on the riverbank or at a rocky viewpoint.

Where to stay in Samburu

Luxury

• Saruni Samburu: a hilltop lodge in the Kalama Conservancy with open-fronted villas and views across the plains to Mount Kenya on a clear day.
• Sasaab: Moroccan-inspired rooms with private plunge pools on a ridge above the Ewaso Ng’iro in the Westgate Conservancy.
• Elephant Watch Camp: an eco camp in the reserve, built from fallen wood and natural materials and set up by conservationists Oria and Saba Douglas-Hamilton.
• Sirai House: a private house in the Namunyak Conservancy for families and small groups.

Mid-range to upper mid-range

• Samburu Intrepids: a tented camp on the riverbank with a pool and a good children’s programme.
• Elephant Bedroom Camp: 12 tents under the trees by the river. Elephants regularly walk through camp.
• Ashnil Samburu Camp: a tented camp on the river with good views of wildlife coming to drink.
• Larsens Camp: a traditional tented camp on the river in the reserve.
• Samburu Sopa Lodge: a comfortable lodge on higher ground, good value and popular with families.
• Sarova Shaba Game Lodge: a large lodge in Shaba National Reserve with a natural spring-fed pool.

When to go

• June to October: the long dry season. Animals gather along the river and game viewing is at its best.
• Late December to March: a shorter dry spell with great wildlife.
• April to May and November: the rains. The reserve is quiet and the bush turns green, although some tracks can be challenging.

Samburu is hot. Daytime temperatures often reach 30 to 35°C, and nights are warm. Bring light, breathable clothes, a wide-brimmed hat and plenty of sun cream.

Getting there

• By air: scheduled flights from Wilson Airport in Nairobi land at Kalama or Buffalo Springs airstrips in about 1 hour 15 minutes. The luggage limit is usually 15kg in soft bags.
• By road: approximately 5 to 6 hours from Nairobi on good tarmac, via Mount Kenya, Nanyuki and Isiolo. A stop at the Equator sign in Nanyuki is a favourite.
• From Ol Pejeta: approximately 3 hours by road.

Park fees

Samburu National Reserve is managed by Samburu County, while Buffalo Springs is managed by Isiolo County. Each county sets its own fees, which may change from time to time. Conservancy fees are extra and usually included in your camp rate. Each of our Samburu safaris includes all park and conservancy fees.

Practical tips

• Drink plenty of water. The heat catches many UK visitors out.
• Ask permission before photographing Samburu people. Your guide can help.
• Speak to your GP or a travel clinic about malaria protection. Samburu is a low-altitude area where it matters.
• Soft bags are a must when flying in.

How long to stay

We recommend three nights, which gives you time to find all of the Special Five, spend an afternoon with the elephants on the river and visit a Samburu village. Pair it with two nights at Ol Pejeta, or add Lake Nakuru on the way back south, for a well-rounded northern Kenya safari.