Ol Pejeta Conservancy: Destination Guide

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is home to the last two northern white rhinos in the world and the largest black rhino sanctuary in East Africa. It is a 360 square kilometre private wildlife conservancy in Laikipia, central Kenya, with Mount Kenya on the horizon and the Big Five on the ground. For UK travellers who are interested in conservation and want more than game drives, Ol Pejeta is one of the most rewarding places to visit in Kenya.

The conservancy lies just outside the town of Nanyuki, about 200km north of Nairobi, right on the Equator. It is a not-for-profit organisation, so the money you spend on your visit goes back into wildlife protection and local community projects. You can read more about its work on the Ol Pejeta Conservancy website.

Why go to Ol Pejeta

• See the last two northern white rhinos in the world, Najin and her daughter Fatu.
• Excellent black rhino sightings: the conservancy holds more than 200.
• The Big Five in one place, with Mount Kenya as the backdrop.
• Activities that are not permitted in national parks, such as night drives, lion tracking and guided walks.
• Kenya’s only chimpanzee sanctuary.
• Easy access by road from Nairobi, and perfect for combining with Samburu National Reserve.

The northern white rhinos

Najin and Fatu are the last two northern white rhinos alive. Both are female, so they cannot breed naturally. Sudan, the last male, died at Ol Pejeta in 2018, and his death was reported around the world, including in the UK.

The BioRescue consortium, a team of scientists, is working to save the subspecies using IVF, with eggs collected from Fatu, stored sperm and southern white rhinos as surrogate mothers. Ol Pejeta is at the heart of that work.

You can visit Najin and Fatu in their enclosure with their dedicated keepers, who guard them 24 hours a day. Hearing the keepers talk about the two rhinos is often the most moving part of a trip to Kenya.

Other wildlife

• Black rhino: Ol Pejeta has the largest population in East Africa, and sightings on game drives are common.
• Southern white rhino: a healthy population living alongside the black rhinos.
• Lions: several prides are present, and the conservancy runs a lion monitoring project.
• Leopards and cheetahs: both are present, with leopards most often seen in the riverine woodland.
• Elephants and buffalo: large numbers, with elephants moving in and out through wildlife corridors.
• Grevy’s zebra: Ol Pejeta is one of the few places south of Samburu where you can see this endangered species.
• Other species: Jackson’s hartebeest, reticulated giraffe, oryx, eland, waterbuck, spotted hyena, jackal and, occasionally, African wild dog.
• Birds: more than 300 species recorded.

Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary

Chimpanzees are not native to Kenya. The Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary opened in 1993 with the Jane Goodall Institute to care for chimpanzees rescued from the illegal wildlife trade and abuse in West and Central Africa. The chimps live in large, forested enclosures on both banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River. You can watch them from viewing platforms and learn about each chimp’s history.

Ol Pejeta activities

• Game drives: morning, afternoon and full-day drives across open plains with Mount Kenya behind.
• Night game drives: look for aardvarks, bat-eared foxes, hyenas, white-tailed mongoose and hunting lions.
• Lion tracking: join the conservancy’s researchers to find lions using radio telemetry and help collect data on the prides.
• Guided bush walks: explore on foot with an armed ranger. Walks focus on tracks, plants and smaller wildlife.
• Walk with rhinos: guided walks with the rhino keepers, subject to availability.
• K9 anti-poaching unit: meet the tracker dogs trained to follow poachers and sniff out ivory and weapons.
• Morani’s Information Centre: learn about Ol Pejeta’s conservation work and meet Baraka, a blind black rhino, when available.
• Horse riding and cycling: guided rides in selected areas of the conservancy.
• Community visits: visit local schools, farms and projects supported by Ol Pejeta.
• Equator crossing: stop at the Equator line in Nanyuki for a photograph and the famous water demonstration.

Some activities must be booked in advance and are charged separately. We arrange these as part of your itinerary.

Where to stay at Ol Pejeta

Luxury

• Ol Pejeta House: the former home of arms dealer Adnan Khashoggi, now an exclusive-use house run by Elewana, with six rooms and a private team.
• Kicheche Laikipia: a small tented camp in a quiet part of the conservancy, overlooking a waterhole.
• Pelican House: a private house for families and groups, overlooking a lake and with views of Mount Kenya.

Mid-range

• Sweetwaters Serena Camp: a tented camp overlooking a floodlit waterhole where rhinos and elephants come to drink, with views of Mount Kenya.
• Porini Rhino Camp: a small eco camp with just a few tents, known for knowledgeable guides and guided walks.
• Ol Pejeta Bush Camp: a riverside tented camp on the Ewaso Ng’iro, run by Ol Pejeta itself.
• Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages: cottages close to the Morani Centre, suitable for families.

Value

• Ol Pejeta campsites and bandas: basic options for self-drive or budget travellers.
• Hotels in Nanyuki: a short drive from the gates, ranging from simple guesthouses to the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club.

When to go

Ol Pejeta is a year-round destination.

• June to October: the dry season, with short grass and animals close to water. The best months for game viewing.
• December to March: also dry, with clear views of Mount Kenya in the mornings.
• April to May and November: the rains. Green scenery, fewer visitors and lower lodge rates.

The conservancy sits at approximately 1,800 metres, so days are warm (22 to 28°C) and nights are cool. Bring a fleece for early morning drives.

Getting there

• By road from Nairobi: approximately 3.5 to 4 hours via Nyeri and Nanyuki.
• By air: scheduled flights from Wilson Airport reach Nanyuki in approximately 45 minutes, and some camps have their own airstrips.
• From Samburu: around 3 hours by road.
• From Lake Nakuru: approximately 4 hours by road.

Conservancy fees

Ol Pejeta is a private conservancy, so it sets its own fees rather than following Kenya Wildlife Service rates. Non-resident visitors pay a daily conservation fee, which funds rhino protection, ranger salaries and community projects. Several activities, including lion tracking and the chimpanzee sanctuary’s behind-the-scenes tour, cost extra. The conservation fee and any activities booked through us are included in each of our Ol Pejeta packages.

Practical tips

• Allow time for the northern white rhino visit and the chimpanzee sanctuary. Each deserves a full hour.
• Book night drives and lion tracking early. Places are limited.
• Pack warm layers for mornings and evenings.
• Add Samburu and Lake Nakuru National Park for a classic northern and Rift Valley circuit.

How long to stay

Two nights give you enough time for game drives, Najin and Fatu and the chimpanzees. Three nights let you add night drives, lion tracking and a bush walk without rushing.